1. - UV Radiation Damage
Skin damage affects collagen at a cellular level, prompting elastosis or a wobbly, loose configuration of collagen to occur. Collagen becomes stretchy and loses the firm spongy collagen of youth. UVR damage, coupled with repetitive facial expressions, causes crows feet, forehead and frown lines - the most common wrinkles associated with ageing. There are a number of ways to protect your skin from the damaging effects of the sun but there are also ways to reverse the damage already done.

a) Using products at home incorporating Vitamin A will reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Australian rated 30+ SPF is a must.

b) Topical application of Vitamin C helps to stimulate fibroblasts - the cells that produce collagen in the skin. Newer products containing "super anti-oxidants" such as Lipochroman 6 help to remove damaging free radicals from the skin and create a healthier cellular environment by reducing oxidative stress on cells.

c) Medicated treatments for wrinkles including BOTOX® - administered through a few tiny injections of purified protein, BOTOX® relaxes the muscle by blocking the nerve impulses that trigger wrinkle-causing muscle contractions.



d) Sun damage thickens the outer layer of skin in an attempt to filter UV radiation. Physician strength facial peels deliberately thin this skin to re-create a fresh complexion.

2. - Changes in Pigment
All pigmentation is derived from specific cells called the melanoctyes - these are the cells in our skin that manufacture pigment.

Over time pigmentary changes contribute to our assessment of an individual's age such as a yellowing or parchment-look to the skin. Liver spots (lentigines) and flat brownish spots that appear in response to sun exposure may increase and get darker with age.

These giveaway signs of ageing, which often appear on the back of hands, face, décolletage and tops of shoulders, can be treated to help your skin look healthy and glowing once again.

a) Laser therapy, and medically supervised IPL (Intense Pulsed light) application can reverse the ageing process

b) Physician strength peels, TCA or Salicylic Acid peels can greatly help improve the quality and texture of sun-damaged skin

c) Artful application of liquid nitrogen ( a cold liquid similar to dry ice) can result in permanent removal

3. - Collagen Production
Collagen production can be affected by the depletion of oestrogen during menopause. The production of type 3 collagen lacks the tensile strength of type1 collagen present in pre-menopausal women and leads to further sagging of the facial tissues causing patients to comment, "It all began at menopause!".

For the most part, these observations are correct. A loss of the subcutaneous fat and tissue, and a change in the way that muscles of the face attach to the bones, occurs beneath the surface of the skin.

The bone itself undergoes remodeling, leading to the changes in the lower face, such as loss of top lip; development of lines from the nose to the mouth (naso-labial lines) and from the corners of the mouth to the chin (marionette lines); and sagging of the cheeks which results in a less defined jaw line and the development of jowls.

There are a number of solutions available for replacing and producing the collagen.

a) Apart from continuous use of sun block, diet and nutrients play a large part in the development of collagen. Fish oil and evening primrose oil help to boost the outer layer of cells, contributing to healthier robust skin.

b) Volume replacement can be achieved with a hyaluronate based product to help plump the skin and reduce sagging. Juvéderm is one such product - it is a smooth gel made of hyaluronic acid which is a naturally occurring substance in your skin that helps to add volume and hydration.

c) Collagen substitutes offer a natural look, however, they do not appear to be as long lasting as hylauronates. A soft gel like consistency, they are ideal for improving lips and the philtrim area (the subtle lines between the nose and the upper lip).

For further information on anti-ageing treatments, consult your Doctor or visit www.wrinkles.com.au to find a qualified medical practitioner in your area.

Next month Dr Caswell examines the eyes and forehead and shares her beauty secrets to maintaining a youthful appearance.